After you've applied the tape, apply a thin coat of joint compound over it. This helps minimize curling and wrinkling along the tape edge and makes the tape easier to conceal with other coats. Remember to extend and feather out all subsequent coats of compounds about two inches beyond each previous coat. When filling fastener depressions, use just enough mud to level the dents and bring the compound level with the panel's surface. Using mesh tape rather than the conventional paper tape is another option. That eliminates one step because you don't have to do the bed coat."

Because the ends of drywall boards are flat, butt joints often are difficult to conceal because the raw edge of the paper may expand and create ridges. If you make an eighth-inch 45-degree bevel on the end of the board with a sharp utility knife, you'll keep the paper ends apart and reduce expansion problems. You also will minimize future problems if you make sure the ends are loosely butted together and not touching tightly.

When patching a hole try not to lose too much time trying to be perfect. Don't try to get the new piece of board to fit too tight. A little gap won't hurt anything, because you're going to put tape over the edge of it, leaving up to an quarter of an inch all the way around is fine.
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Basic Drywall Taping and Finishing Information

Tape ceiling joints first, then wall joints, and finally the corners. Always do the angles last.To tape joints, first spread a layer of mud over the tapered edges of the drywall. This helps partially fill the joints and provides a good surface to which the tape can adhere. Embed the tape in the compound by drawing the flat edge of a knife along it. Use sufficient pressure to squeeze out excess compound from the tape's edges. Don't get heavy-handed, however. Be sure to leave sufficient mud under the tape for a good bond.
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